travel/ May 14, 2026
Heian in the Streets
Kyoto's oldest festival is a near-silent walk in Heian court dress — the one nobody films, and the one locals quietly prefer.

Kyoto's oldest festival is a near-silent walk in Heian court dress — the one nobody films, and the one locals quietly prefer.

A food critic's case for the dim, wood-panelled coffee houses where one hand-dripped cup takes four minutes and nobody hurries you out.

Four holidays nobody thinks about, a whole country on the move at once, and a returnee weighing collective rest against the kind she chose.

A Kyoto native on the carp streamers of Children's Day — and their quiet migration from home balconies to the country's rivers.

JR East just put parcels on the Shinkansen. The train is easy; the question of why a passenger railway is now in the freight business is the story.
